Come out of Your Shell!

Oysters, mussels and clams are among the principal shellfish eaten in Quebec. Selecting among the many varieties should be based on their intended use.

Oysters The two best-known varieties in our part of the country are the caraquet from New Brunswick and the malpeque from Prince Edward Island. Both are firm and succulent, but the malpeque is a little saltier.

Mussels In Quebec, the most common variety is the blue mussel, a farmed mussel, guaranteeing a clean, wholesome, premium-quality product. Farmed mussels have plumper, paler, more tender meat but no sand or grit, unlike their wild counterparts.

Clams There are many varieties of clams but the most common ones are the quahog, cherrystone and littleneck. Another variety on the market is the mahogany, also sold as the "ocean quahog". It can be prepared in the same way as cherrystone and littleneck clams.

Quahogs, also known as "Chowder clams" are the biggest, measuring 3 inches (6.5 cm) or more in diameter. They are however less tender and tasty than smaller varieties, so eating them raw is not recommended. But chopped, shucked quahogs are good in chowders, soups and slow-cooked dishes.

Cherrystones measure 2½ inches (5.5 cm) in diameter and are best stuffed or broiled. The smallest cherrystones can be eaten raw.

Littlenecks measure 2 inches (4.5 cm) in diameter and are the sweetest, most succulent and, usually, the most expensive. They are excellent raw or steamed, eaten whole or mixed into pasta, sauces, salads or other seafood dishes.

For the best quality freshest bivalves, look for the following.

• Check the date of the catch on the package or with your fishmonger to make sure they're fresh.
• Don't buy any molluscs with damaged or broken shells.
• When buying unshucked shellfish, check for heavy (waterlogged) living molluscs. The shells should be closed or snap shut when tapped. Bivalves with open shells are not safe for eating.
• Shucked molluscs should be eaten only if meat is firm and plump and swimming in clear liquid.
• The smell of shellfish is also a good indicator as to quality. Fresh shellfish smell faintly of seaweed. Avoid any that smell of ammonia.

Ideally, shellfish should be eaten soon after purchase. If not, observing the following rules on storage is of paramount importance to ensure maximum freshness.

• Molluscs keep refrigerated wrapped in a damp cloth in a container. Molluscs need to breathe, so they shouldn't be kept in an airtight bag or container.
• Unshucked oysters will keep up to 7 days; unshucked clams 3 to 5 days and unshucked mussels only 1 or 2 days.
• Raw, shucked oysters will keep 3 to 5 days refrigerated in an airtight container in their own juices (add salted water as needed to cover completely) and Raw, shucked clams, 1 to 2 days. Thaw in the refrigerator before using and eat immediately when thawed. Never refreeze thawed shellfish.
• Mussels should be cooked before freezing. Shuck cooked mussels, put them in an airtight container, cover with cooking juices and freeze. They will keep 6 weeks in the freezer.
• Cooked, shucked oysters and clams shouldn't be frozen or they become tough and rubbery.

Although it may seem tedious at times, this step is essential to ensure full enjoyment of these delicate morsels.

• Before eating or cooking mussels, clean them thoroughly with a brush under cold running water to wash away any sand or grit in the shell ridges.
• Debeard mussels and clams before cooking.
• Some gourmets recommend rinsing clams under cold running water for 20 minutes after brushing them to dislodge any sand inside the shell. Remove clams after 20 minutes and rinse in water to which coarse salt has been added.
• Never leave molluscs in standing water because they could open, lose their juices and die.

• To avoid a metallic taste, use a strong, wood-handled, short knife with a thick stainless steel blade to shuck molluscs. Slip the blade between the shells, twist open, and slice through the muscle. Wrap your hand with a damp cloth in case the knife slips.
• Molluscs can also be opened by steaming them, which keeps the shells intact for a great look when shellfish are served whole. Steaming is also one of the best ways to cook molluscs to be used in a recipe for pasta, salad, cream soup or sauce.

Molluscs are very easy to cook and some are even eaten raw. In fact, small oysters and clams on the half-shell are sublime with rye bread, butter and a dry, fruity white wine. Aficionados enjoy them this way, savouring the subtle flavour so redolent of the sea that it makes all seasonings superfluous. For those who want more flavour, top the meat with a dab of butter seasoned with shallots, pepper and nutmeg. Mussels, unlike oysters and clams, must always be cooked to prevent any risk of allergies, especially hives.

Molluscs can be prepared in various ways to tease the taste buds: they can be baked, broiled, pan-fried or deep-fried, poached or steamed. Poaching and steaming cook molluscs in brine juice keeps the flesh succulent. Poaching in a skilfully flavoured broth enhances the flavour of molluscs while steaming highlights their subtle, delicate flavour. Simmering shellfish on a bed of seasoned vegetables or baking them au gratin in the shell imbues them with rich flavour.

Pan-fried or deep-fried molluscs are the best way to introduce the truly hesitant to seafood. Oysters or clams dipped in breadcrumbs or a light batter then fried are foods for the gods!

Depending on how they are cooked, molluscs can be used to make savoury snacks or soups that are sure to give you an appetite. Some chowders are so hearty that they make a meal. And a shellfish salad can't miss-molluscs combined with crisp, fresh vegetables, herbs and some nice dressing that enhances the various flavours and ties them all together. Mix flavours and textures for memorable meals. Molluscs with pasta or rice make great meals such as paella, mussel risotto, linguine with clam sauce.

And the combinations are endless since mussels, oysters and clams can be substituted for one another in most recipes. Go wild! There's only one rule-don't overcook them, keep them tender and succulent.

• Figure on 12-18 molluscs per person as a main course.
• Serve half that as a first course or in a soup.

As a general rule, dry, fruity white wines, some light, others more full-bodied, go best with molluscs.

Stocks are greater in the closing months of the year, but molluscs are perfectly safe to eat from May to August (the months without an "R") although stronger-tasting because it is the reproduction season. According to some gourmets, oysters, mussels and clams are less tasty and plump and more perishable at that time.